WESTIE DENTAL CARE
Dental problems can pose a serious threat to a dog’s health if left untreated. Although dogs don’t typically seem to suffer with dental decay or cavities, any plaque that’s allowed to build up excessively on the teeth, can turn into hardened tartar, which results in bad breath, and can cause bacteria to build up at the border with the gums. These bacteria in turn release toxins into the oral tissue, which can lead to periodontal disease – a problem of the gums. The bacteria cause the gum tissue and tooth to separate from one another which causes ‘pockets’ to develop, where yet more bacteria can congregate. The teeth can actually become loosened as the toxins move into the deeper layers of the gum tissues, and painful abscesses can form. Bacterial toxins can also enter the bloodstream, and this poses a risk to the kidneys, lungs, liver and heart – and ultimately the entire immune system.
The rate at which periodontal disease progresses seems to be affected by the number and type of bacteria in the mouth. Dogs who pant excessively or breathe with an open mouth, develop more persistent plaque because their mouth tends to be drier. Older dogs are also more commonly affected. The composition of the dog’s saliva seems to play a role in his propensity to suffer dental problems as well – the more acidic the dog’s slobber, the more quickly tartar is likely to develop, as that slobber combines with the bacteria that are naturally present in the mouth.
Westies seem to be more prone to dental problems. This may be a genetic issue, or perhaps a result of the fact that as a general rule, small dogs are more finicky in nature, which can lead their owners to try and entice them with ’sticky’ canned foods and diets that contain higher amounts of sugar. In some cases, owners of tiny breeds may also be nervous about feeding their dogs with whole chicken necks & wings (the types of bones that require true chewing and gnawing, and help to lessen plaque buildup in bigger bone-crunching breeds) for fear of choking. Small dogs are also more prone to their teeth being crowded together (which in turn can make brushing or cleaning with bones and cartilage, even more difficult).
Unfortunately, many owners take their dogs’ dental health for granted and assume that no proactive care is necessary – only to discover that years down the road, a serious dental health concern has arisen, and costly veterinary bills to undo the damage (sometimes including uncomfortable extractions) are on the horizon.
With lots of pet food manufactures promoting their dry, crunchy kibble products as capable of cleaning the teeth, it’s easy to jump to the conclusion that the dogs’ teeth can be all but ignored if she’s eating pelleted food. But the fact is that in the majority of cases, dogs and cats don’t actually even crunch up their kibble with their teeth. Have you ever seen your dog vomit or regurgitate her kibble? Almost without exception, that kibble returns to the world in the exact same form as it was consumed – round pellets. There’s no way the pellets could have cleaned the teeth because they were never even chewed, and simply got swallowed whole! Secondly, most kibbles are so laden with processed simple carbohydrates, that any pellets which are actually chewed, run the risk of impacting starches and sugars into the gum-line, thus increasing the likelihood of periodontal disease over the long term.
Some owners make dental health a top priority and follow a diligent routine of brushing with specialized pet toothpaste on a daily basis. There’s also a growing sub-industry of pet dental products, ranging from specialized toys and chews, to powders and liquid products that are added to the food or water, and claim to promote dental health.
A canine toothbrush or finger-toothbrush can be a good investment for owners of dogs who are especially prone to plaque and tartar buildup, and regular at-home cleaning can help delay or completely avoid the need for professional dental cleanings. You can get your dog used to a toothbrush by applying a meat-flavored toothpaste to it and just allowing him to lick it off. Once he is comfortable with this, you can begin gently brushing the teeth. Most canine tartar buildup actually occurs on the sides adjacent to the cheeks and not inside, by the tongue, which makes cleaning a little easier! Ultimately, you can work up to cleaning the teeth two or three times a week if needed.
The frequency rate of the cleaning schedule often ends up correlating directly with the dog’s willingness to have his teeth cleaned with a toothbrush – those who love the process tend to make it a much more rewarding experience for the owner, and this results in more frequent cleaning compared with the dog who hates it, fights with the brush and causes an exhausting struggle which may only be braved once or twice a year!
If tartar buildup is very severe, a professional cleaning may be necessary to give you a ‘clean slate’ to work with but as with most things, if you can get into good habits early on, or incorporate fresh foods and bones when appropriate, the management and maintenance of dental health is much easier. When a dental cleaning does become a necessity, there’s some debate about whether this should be done under anesthetic, or ‘anesthesia-free’. Many conventional vets claim that the teeth can only be very thoroughly examined and cleaned on all facets when the dog is completely anesthetized and unable to protest. However, anesthesia-free cleaning is becoming immensely popular and can result in gleaming pearly-whites for many dogs – particularly if done on a maintenance schedule every year or two, to prevent the development of less severe dental problems.
One of the best tools for cleaning the teeth enjoyably and without a fuss, is a raw beef marrow bone or ‘soup’ bone. Most dogs adore having a fresh raw bone to chew on; it will provide hours of gnawing enjoyment and the abrasive action of the bone against the teeth and pulling off any scraps of meat, can reduce plaque buildup, scrape off any developing tartar and even clean between the teeth as sinew is pulled off. Results aren’t usually seen overnight but offering a good bone to chew on a couple or three times a week will almost always help with dental health. There are some concerns about a risk of tooth fracture in more ‘aggressive chewers’ when gnawing on raw bones so it is wise to discuss this with your veterinarian and monitor your dog closely to begin with, to establish how voraciously he chews.
Ultimately, the way you approach dental health will depend on what you are comfortable with as an owner and the time you are willing to spend. The key thing to remember is (as with most things) prevention is far better than cure. So whether it’s a specialty custom-made dental product or good old-fashioned meat and bones, reducing the risk of plaque buildup is much less unpleasant for your dog and your wallet, compared with a visit to the vet for major dental work and the risk of having to have teeth pulled.
Pet CPR & First Aid
"Changing the Way You Learn"TM
The following is a simple breakdown of dog & cat CPR. It's written for the average pet owner and in plain language. It uses the common accepted approach to pet cardiopulmonary resuscitation according to excepted standards of Pet First Aid courses throughout the United States. Pet First Aid is not intended to take the place of professional veterinary care. It is recommended that you take a Pet First Aid course from a certified instructor.
ABC's (Airway, Breathing, Circulation)
Airway: Probably one of the most important things you can do after SAFETY is to make sure your dog or cat is breathing. To do this, you want to gently tap your dog or cat and call out their name to see if they move. Then (being careful not to get bitten or scratched) lean down close and LOOK, LISTEN AND FEEL for breathing.
Look: at the chest of the animal to see if it's moving.
Listen: to see if you can hear them breathing.
Feel: on your cheek or back of your hand for a breath.
Breathing: If your dog or cat is not breathing, pull their tongue just a little bit, close the mouth and tilt their head just a little to open their Airway. Give them 4 -5 breaths from your (guess what?) mouth to their nose! This is Mouth-to-Snout resuscitation. You'll want to give them just enough air to make the chest rise. Big dogs need more - little dogs or cats much less. Remember not to give too much air! You don't want to hurt them.
Circulation: This means you're checking to see if their heart is working OK. To do that you must check for a heart beat which is called a pulse. There are pulse points located in various areas on your dog or cat. For a dog the best place to find the pulse is on the inside of the rear leg, towards the top of the leg. This is called the Femoral Pulse. For a cat the best place to find the pulse is on the outside of the left front leg, just behind the shoulder. This is called an Apical Pulse.
Rescue Breathing
First do your ABC's, don't forget to LOOK, LISTEN, and FEEL for breathing.
If not breathing, give 4-5 breaths using Mouth-to-Snout resuscitation.
Check for pulse on the Femoral Artery for dogs or check the Apical Pulse for cats or really small dogs.
If there is a pulse, but no breathing start Mouth-to-Snout resuscitation giving 1 breath every 3 seconds. For cats or really small dogs, give 1 breath every 2 seconds.
CPR (cardiopulmonary resuscitation)
CPR: First do your ABC's, don't forget to LOOK, LISTEN, and FEEL for breathing. CPR can only be performed if your dog or cat is not breathing and has no pulse.
Follow Steps 1,2,3 same as in Rescue Breathing.
If there is no Pulse, start CPR
Dog = Place the dog on the ground or other hard surface with its right side down. Take it's left front leg and bend at the elbow, rotating at the shoulder. The point where the elbow of the dog touches the body is where you place your hands for compressions. Put one hand on top of the other and clasp your fingers together. Lock your elbows and start performing compressions. Push approximately 2-3 inches deep. Give compressions first then a breath. After 1 minute check for a pulse. Repeat if there's no response.
Giant Dogs = Give 1 breath every 10 compressions.
Medium to large dogs = Give 1 breath every 5 compressions.
Small Dogs = Give 1 breath every 5 compressions.
Cats or really small dogs = Place the animal flat on the ground. Then put your hands on either side of the animal's chest, right behind the shoulder blades with your palms over the heart (sandwiching the animal's chest between both hands). Compress approximately ½ - 1 inch deep. After 1 minute, check for a pulse again.
Cats or really small dogs = Give 1 breath every 3 compressions.

Signs of Heat Stroke
The following signs may indicate heat stroke in a dog:
•Increased rectal temperature (over 104° requires action, over 106° is a dire emergency)
•Vigorous panting
•Dark red gums
•Tacky or dry mucus membranes (specifically the gums)
•Lying down and unwilling (or unable) to get up
•Collapse and/or loss of consciousness
•Thick saliva
•Dizziness or disorientation
What to do if You Suspect Heat Stroke
If you have even the slightest suspicion that your dog is suffering from heat stoke, you must take immediate action.
1.First, move your dog out of the heat and away from the sun right away.
2.Begin cooling your dog by placing cool, wet rags or washcloths on the body - especially the foot pads and around the head.
3.DO NOT use ice or very cold water! Extreme cold can cause the blood vessels to constrict, preventing the body's core from cooling and actually causing the internal temperature to further rise. In addition, over-cooling can cause hypothermia, introducing a host of new problems. When the body temperature reaches 103°, stop cooling.
4.Offer your dog cool water, but do not force water into your dog's mouth.
5.Call or visit your vet right away - even if your dog seems better. Internal damage might not be obvious to the naked eye, so an exam is necessary (and further testing may be recommended).
Tip: recruit others to help you - ask someone to call the vet while others help you cool your dog.

This information was obtained from the AKC July 2009 Newsletter Fire Safety article. visit www.AKC.org for additional information.
