Looking for something

FUN

to do with your westies check out

 www.petsoverpittsburgh.com  and www.pittsburghdogs.com

for all upcoming dog events in our area.

THERAPY OFFERED

Veterinarian Henry Croft Jr. and the Seton Hill University Center for Family Therapy run a support group for those grieving the loss of a pet. For more information on the group, call 724-552-0339.

Did You Know.......

This is a game terrier and has a very strong will. The first show held for the breed was at Crufts in London in 1907. The first AKC registration was in 1908. Originally registered as the Roseneath Terrier, the name was officially changed to West Highland White Terrier on May 31, 1909. The West Highland White Terrier, according to notable authors originated at Poltalloch, Scotland, where they had been bred and maintained for more than 100 years prior to their appearance at dog shows. In 1916 Colonel Malcolm of Poltalloch said that his father and grandfather both kept them. It is probable that the lineage of the Malcolm dogs goes back to the time of King James I, who asked for some ''earth-dogges'' out of Argyleshire. Years ago the breed was known as the Roseneath Terrier, also as the Poltalloch Terrier. The name Roseneath was taken from the Duke of Argyll's place in Dumbartonshire, Scotland. It is probable that the West Highland White Terrier and all the terriers of Scotland came from the same stock; the Scotties, Cairns, Dandie Dinmonts, and West Highland Whites are branches from the same tree and its roots. So you want to own a West Highland White Terrier? The West Highland is all terrier - a large amount of Scotch spunk, determination, and devotion crammed into a small body. Outdoors they are truly sporty, good hunters, speedy and cunning, with great intelligence. In the house they are all that can be desired of a pet; faithful, understanding, and devoted, yet gay and light-hearted. The Westie requires professional grooming every few months.

Urgent Notice: Potential Danger of Dog Hair.....

In a press release today, the National Institute of Health has announced
the discovery of a potentially dangerous substance in the hair of dogs.
This substance, called "amobacter caninii" has been linked with the
following symptoms in females: Reluctance to cook, clean or do
housework, a reluctance to wear make-up, good clothes or high heels.
Reluctance to spend money on home or car repairs until after 'Baby' has
new collars, leashes, beds, treats, food, blankets or toys.

"Amobacter caninii" usually results in long hours away from home and
exhaustion which may lead to a loss of physical contact with other
humans (especially husbands and boyfriends). "Amobacter caninii" is
thought to be addictive, driving the need for additional sources - this
may lead to a "pack mentality" or like the potato chip commercial, "you
can't have just one". Beware! If you come in contact with a female
human infected by this substance, be prepared to talk about dogs for hours.

Surgeon General's Warning: Dogs are expensive, addictive, and may
impair the ability to use common sense. Have a nice day!

Cocoa Mulch product is HIGHLY toxic to dogs and cats.  
Cocoa Mulch is manufactured by Hershey's, and they claim that 'It is true that studies have shown that 50% of the dogs that eat Cocoa Mulch can suffer physical harm to a variety of degrees (depending on each individual dog). However, 98% of all dogs won't eat it.'   This Snopes site gives the following information:http://www.snopes.com/critters/crusader/cocoamulch.asp
Cocoa Mulch, which is sold by Home Depot, Foreman's Garden Supply and other Garden supply stores, contains a lethal ingredient called ' Theobromine'. It is lethal to dogs and cats. It smells like chocolate and it really attracts dogs. Theobromine is in all chocolate, especially dark or
baker's chocolate which is toxic to dogs. Cocoa bean shells contain
potentially toxic quantities of Theobromine, a xanthine compound similar in effects to caffeine and theophylline. A dog that ingested a lethal quantity of garden mulch made from cacao bean shells developed severe convulsions and died 17 hours later. Analysis of the stomach contents and the ingested cacao bean shells revealed the presence of lethal amounts of theobromine.  

 PLEASE GIVE THIS THE WIDEST DISTRIBUTION!

www.TerrierToys.com

From the ASPCA newsletter

Winter's chill may have settled in your neighborhood, but your
energetic pooch still wants to go for walks in the great outdoors. Take
it slow and steady, pet parents. According to our experts, the danger of
stray voltage on city streets can turn a simple stroll into a
devastating event for our furry friends.
Most common in northern climes and urban areas, stray voltage occurs
when dormant utilities leak excess electricity. Combined with wet
streets and salt-based ice melts, this current can shock, injure or even
prove fatal for those in its path. "Since salt used to treat icy
streets is a great conductor of electricity," says Dr. Louise
Murray, ASPCA Director of Medicine and author of Vet Confidential
<http://www.aspca.org/site/Ecommerce?VIEW_PRODUCT=true&product_id=10101&\
store_id=4681&s_src=newsalert&s_subsrc=010909> , "the risk of shock
from stray voltage is that much higher during the winter months."
The ASPCA offers the following tips to help you avoid potentially
hazardous areas, and advice on what to do if your pet has suffered an
electrical shock:
    * Keep your dog away from metal fixtures, such as lampposts, grates
or manhole covers. While these spots may be your pet's favorite
place to relieve himself, they may also conduct hazardous electricity.
* Your dog's snazzy, rubber rain boots may look good, but they won't
protect your pooch from a strong current. Don't depend on them to
keep your pet safe. Some boots-those with metal studs, for
example-may even make the situation worse.     * Observe your
dog's behavior. Is he skittish, frightened, angry or upset for no
apparent reason? These sudden behavioral changes could be an indication
of electric shock.     * If your dog is incapacitated due to shock,
don't try to touch or move him without protective gear. Your pooch
may pass the current to you, rendering you both incapable of seeking
help. Instead, call your local fire department immediately.

http://www.aspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=media_newsalert010909#1
<http://www.aspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=media_newsalert010909#1>

Pet CPR & First Aid

"Changing the Way You Learn"TM

The following is a simple breakdown of dog & cat CPR.  It's written for the average pet owner and in plain language.  It uses the common accepted approach to pet cardiopulmonary resuscitation according to excepted standards of  Pet First Aid courses throughout the United States.  Pet First Aid is not intended to take the place of professional veterinary care.  It is recommended that you take a Pet First Aid course from a certified instructor.

ABC's (Airway, Breathing, Circulation)

Airway:  Probably one of the most important things you can do after SAFETY is to make sure your dog or cat is breathing. To do this, you want to gently tap your dog or cat and call out their name to see if they move. Then (being careful not to get bitten or scratched) lean down close and LOOK, LISTEN AND FEEL for breathing.

    Look: at the chest of the animal to see if it's moving.

    Listen: to see if you can hear them breathing.

    Feel: on your cheek or back of your hand for a breath.

Breathing:    If your dog or cat is not breathing, pull their tongue just a little bit, close the mouth and tilt their head just a little to open their Airway. Give them 4 -5 breaths from your (guess what?) mouth to their nose! This is  Mouth-to-Snout resuscitation. You'll want to give them just enough air to make the chest rise. Big dogs need more - little dogs or cats much less. Remember not to give too much air! You don't want to hurt them.

Circulation: This means you're checking to see if their heart is working OK. To do that you must check for a heart beat which is called a pulse. There are pulse points located in various areas on your dog or cat. For a dog the best place to find the pulse is on the inside of the rear leg, towards the top of the leg. This is called the Femoral Pulse. For a cat the best place to find the pulse is on the outside of the left front leg, just behind the shoulder. This is called an Apical Pulse.

Rescue Breathing

Rescue Breathing is when you have to breath for your dog or cat because they are not breathing on their own. You do this when your dog or cat has a pulse but is not breathing.

Step 1:        

First do your ABC's, don't forget to LOOK, LISTEN, and FEEL for breathing.

Step 2:  

If not breathing, give 4-5 breaths using Mouth-to-Snout resuscitation.

Step 3:

 Check for pulse on the Femoral Artery for dogs or check the Apical Pulse for cats or really small dogs.

Step 4:   

If there is a pulse, but no breathing start Mouth-to-Snout resuscitation giving 1 breath every 3 seconds. For cats or really small dogs, give 1 breath every 2 seconds.

CPR (cardiopulmonary resuscitation)

CPR:  First do your ABC's, don't forget to LOOK, LISTEN, and FEEL for breathing.  CPR can only be performed if your dog or cat is not breathing and has no pulse.

Follow Steps 1,2,3 same as in Rescue Breathing.  

If there is no Pulse, start CPR

Step 4:    Dog = Place the dog on the ground or other hard surface with its right side down. Take it's left front leg and bend at the elbow, rotating at the shoulder. The point where the elbow of the dog touches the body is where you place your hands for compressions. Put one hand on top of the other and clasp your fingers together. Lock your elbows and start performing compressions. Push approximately 2-3 inches deep. Give compressions first then a breath. After 1 minute check for a pulse. Repeat if there's no response.

Giant Dogs = Give 1 breath every 10 compressions.

Medium to large dogs = Give 1 breath every 5 compressions.

Small Dogs = Give 1 breath every 5 compressions.

Cats or really small dogs = Place the animal flat on the ground. Then put your hands on either side of the animal's chest, right behind the shoulder blades with your palms over the heart (sandwiching the animal's chest between both hands). Compress approximately ½ - 1 inch deep. After 1 minute, check for a pulse again.

Cats or really small dogs = Give 1 breath every 3 compressions.

This information was obtained from the AKC July 2009 Newsletter Fire Safety article. visit www.AKC.org for additional information.

  • Extinguish Open Flames - Pets are generally curious and will investigate cooking appliances, candles, or even a fire in your fireplace. Ensure your pet is not left unattended around an open flame and make sure to thoroughly extinguish any open flame before leaving your home.
  • Pet Proof the Home - Take a walk around your home and look for areas where pets might start fires inadvertently, such as the stove knobs, loose wires and other potential hazards.
  • Secure Young Pets - Especially with young puppies, keep them confined away from potential fire-starting hazards when you are away from home.
  • Keep Pets Near Entrances – When leaving pets home alone, keep them in areas or rooms near entrances where firefighters can easily find them.
  • Practicing Escape Routes with Pets – Keep collars and leashes at the ready in case you have to evacuate quickly with your pet or firefighters need to rescue your pet.
  • Affix a Pet Alert Window Cling – Write down the number of pets inside your house and attach the static cling to a front window. This critical information saves rescuers time when locating your pets. You can obtain a free window cling here or at AKC Responsible Dog Ownership Days events.
  • Keep Your Information Updated - Firefighters are familiar with pet alert window clings so keep the number of pets listed on them updated. Knowing the accurate number of pets in the house aids rescuers in finding all of your pets.
  • Use Monitored Smoke Detection Services – As an added layer of protection beyond battery-operated smoke alarms, smoke detectors connected to a monitoring center help save pets who can’t escape when left home alone.